Advent in Zagreb, Croatia

Ove godine, prema portalu European Best Destintions (http://www.europeanbestdestinations.com/christmas-markets/) Zagreb je proglašen najboljom adventskom destinacijom, premašivši tako tradicionalne njemačke sajmove te čarobni Beč, London i Salzburg!

This year, the web site European Best Destintions (http://www.europeanbestdestinations.com/christmas-markets/) Zagreb was declared the best Advent destination, surpassing  traditional German trade fairs and magical Vienna, London and Salzburg!

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Tako da sam se vratila prepuna dojmova i još uvijek osjećam predivne  mirise cimeta, klinčića i kuhanog vina, pečenih kobasica, ušećerenih jabuka i domaćih kolača. Sajam je prepun divnih lokalnih rukotvorina, a osim u samom adventskom ugođaju, u Zagrebu možete uživati u šetnjama predivnim parkovima i osjetiti duh starog grada Zagreba – jednoga od kulturnih centara Habsburške monarhije.

So I came back full of impressions and still feeling the wonderful smells of cinnamon, cloves and mulled wine, roasted sausage, candied apples and homemade cakes. The fair is full of lovely local handicrafts, and in addition to the Advent atmosphere in Zagreb you can enjoy walking through beautiful parks and feel the spirit of old Zagreb – one of the cultural centers of the Habsburg monarchy.

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S više adventskih destinacija i marketa imate pogled na Katedralu, u čijim temeljima leži crkvica još iz vremena 11. stoljeća, a današnji neogotički izgleda katedrale može zahvaliti F.Schmitdu i Hermannu Bolleu koji su je rekonstruirali nakon potresa 1880.

From more Advent destinations and markets you have a view on cathedral, in whose foundation lies a little church since the time of the 11th century and today’s neo-Gothic cathedral looks thanks F.Schmitd and Hermann Bolle did the reconstuction after the earthquake in 1880.

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Nakon izlaska iz zajedničke države s Austro-ugarskom, Zagreb je ušao u novo, turbulentno razdoblje zajedničke države isprva u Kraljevini Jugoslaviji, a zatim, nakon Drugog svjetskog rata, unutar Socijalističke Federativne Jugoslavije. 1991. Zagreb postaje glavni grad Republike Hrvatske. Jedan od najznačajnijih kantautora s ovih područja, Đorđe Balašević, koji u svojim djelima objedinjuje kontrasni srednjeeuropski kulturni svijet sa vatrenim jugoistočnim dramskim likom, ima o glavnim gradovima bivše Jugoslavije jedan predivan citat:

“„Vidiš, Sarajevo je srednjeg roda… Kao dete… Zaigrano… Prostodušno… Naivno… Beograd je, recimo, Taj Beograd… Muškarčina… Švaca i galamdžija u raspasanoj beloj košulji, na hoklici pred prepadnutim svircima… i Zagreb je Gospon Zagreb… Koketni gebelovski brčići, prefrigani šmek preko jutarnje štampe… Najveću larmu podigne kad zvecne kašičicom o rub porculanske šoljice… Pa Gospođa Ljubljana… Snežna Kraljica… Uobražena, elegantna, racionalna… Koja je tako hladno napustila taj brak iz računa čim je shvatila da računa više nema… A Sarajevo… Lakoverno, detinjasto… Zato ono prvo i pruža ruke…“

O divnom djetinjem Sarajevu koje te, baš kao i svako dijete, najjače pogađa pogađa u srce svojim bolom i svojom radošću, nekom drugom prilikom.

Ali, Zagreb je uistinu takav, jedan pravi Gospon, elegantan, bečkih manira s cifrastim uvojcima gradskih fasada, dobiva dodatan čar osvjetljen predivnim božićnim lampicama, probuđen i uljuljkan u jednu ugodnu opijenost blagdanskim raspoložanjem.

After leaving the common state with Austria-Hungary in 1918., Zagreb has entered into a new, turbulent period of the new state, first in the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, and then, after World War II, within the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. 1991 Zagreb became the Croatian capital. One of the most important singer-songwriter with this area, Djordje Balasevic, who in his work combines a contrast of central European world with fiery southeastern dramatic character, has the main cities of the former Yugoslavia, one a beautiful quote:

“” You see, Sarajevo is neuter … As a child playfully … … naive … naive … Belgrade is, say, The Belgrade Macho … … and everyone’s loudmouth in open white shirt, on a stool in front dismayed played … and Zagreb is Mister Zagreb … Flirtatious mustache, perfumed flavor through the morning press … The biggest fuss raised when he places a spoon on the edge of a porcelain cup … And Ms. Ljubljana … Snow Queen. .. conceited, elegant, rational … What’s so cold abandoned this marriage of convenience as soon as she realized that the account is no more there… A Sarajevo … credulous, childish … So it first, forgives … “(difficult to translate, mayby another time 😉 )

About wonderful childish Sarajevo which provides you the strongest overwhelming  with their pain and their joy, some other time.

But Zagreb is truly such, one true Sir, elegant, with Viennese manners and frilly curly city facade, gets even more charming with its beautiful Christmas lights, awakened and lulled into a pleasant festive mood.

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Možete započeti svoju šetnju od ledenog parka pokraj Glavnog kolodvora i srednjovjekovnog hrvatskog vladara Tomislava, kojega se smatra prvim hrvatskim kraljem, prema Zrinjevcu, a zatim nastaviti prema gradskom centru, Starom gradu i zaokružiti šetnju centrom odlaskom do Ilice, Uspinjače i Europskog trga.

You can start your walk from the ice park next to the main railway station and medieval Croatian rulers Tomislav, which is considered the first Croatian king, to Zrinjevac, and then continue towards the city center, the Old Town and a walk round the center by going to Ilica, lifts and European market.

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Umjetnički paviljon i Ledeni park okruženi su divnim božićnim sajmom, koji je živ i tijekom dana, a navečer očarava svojim predivnim svjetlima kako Zagrepčane, tako i domaće i strane turiste.

The Art Pavilion and the Ice park are surrounded by a beautiful Christmas Fair, which is alive and during the day and in the evening enchants with its beautiful lights the citizens of Zagreb, as well as domestic and foreign tourists.

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Međutim, ako nastavite još malo ravno, možda dođete do svoje prve destinacije za ispobavanje kuhanog vina, domaćeg sira ili rakije ili kupovinu božićnih poklona. Zrinjevac je, kažu Zagrepčani, njihovo omiljeno mjesto za adventska druženja. Nas je oduševilo kuhano vino i atmosfera sa Stare Preše, kao i kobasice pokraj Umjetničkog paviljona.

However, if you go a little further, you reach your first destination for isprobavanje mulled wine, homemade cheese or brandy or buying Christmas presents. Zrinjevac, say the people of Zagreb, their favorite place for Advent gatherings. We were thrilled mulled wine and atmosphere with old presses, as well as sausages next to the Art Pavilion.

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Kao sitnicu za sreću možete sebi pokloniti zagrebačko licitarsko srce, najklasičniji suvernir Zagreba, pa i kontinentalne Hrvatske. Ja sam se ipak odlučila za modernije rukotvorine nadrealističke animirane umjetnosti s jednog štanda na Zrinjevicu gdje možete pronaći sve od razglednica preko zidnih slika i šalica s motivom šarenog Zagreba.

As a little something for yourself (and merry Christmas) you can give you a nice gingerbread heart, the most classical souvenir Zagreb, and the Croatian mainland. I followed a more modern handicrafts surrealistic animated art of which you can find everything from postcards through wall paintings and cups with pictures of colorful Zagreb.

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Naravno, ni najmlađi neće ostati razočarani, sve je prepuno slastica, šarenih lizalica, bombona i čokoladica koje kao da su upravo izašle iz radionice samog Djeda Mraza. Kad smo kod Mrazeva, ima ih nekoliko u Zagrebu, i prilično su autentični, debeljuškasti s velikim bijelim bradama i crvenim nosevima.

Of course, even the youngest wont be disappointed, everything is full of sweets, colorful lollipops, candies and chocolate bars as if they just came out of the merry workshop of Santa Claus himself. Speaking of Santa’s, there are several in Zagreb, and they are quite authentic, chubby, with big white beards and red noses.

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Oh, tako je! Ne smijete zaboraviti ni rakijicu, koja vas isto tako, u ovim hladnim danima može, ne samo zagrijati, nego svaka od njih ima i brojna ljekovita svojstva.

And of course, something short and strong, as rakija, is also a must when you visit Croatia. It keeps you warm, and also, has good influence on you health!advent17

Mi smo nabasali na pravo apoteku, gdje možete pronaći rogačicu za pjesmu i ples, limoncello protiv straha i medicu za ljubav i mršavljenje. Eh da, i šljivovicu za hrabrost, kao i travaricu – za sve! Hm, moram priznati da je ona od moje svekrve znatno bolja, ali što ćete…dobro promatrajte štandove i pokušavajte namirisati gdje ćete pronaći prave, a gdje industrijske rakijice.

We stumbled upon the right to a pharmacy, where you can find Rogačić for song and dance, limoncello against fear and mead for love and lose weight. Oh yes, and plum brandy for courage, and grappa – for all! Well, I must admit it’s not as good as the one of my mother in law, but, what can you do … watch the market place and try to smell where you will find the real homemade one and where are the industrial ones.

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Božićnu atmosferu radi nekoliko sajmova u centru grada, jedan porkaj Umjetničkog paviljona, jedan na Zrinjevcu, jedan na Trgu bana Jelačića, na Europskom trgu te mnogi mali sajmovi po cijelome gradu.

Sve je ukrašeno božićnim drvcima, vijencima, svjetlima i lampicama, čak ima i umjetnih snježnih šuma…uistinu predivan doživljaj! Na božićnim sajmovima postavljena je vatra ili grijači, tako da vas, uz kuhano vino, i oni griju. Drveni stolovi puni su veselja i radosti, a griju vas i pozivaju i na terase kafića i šarene dekice kojima se možete pokriti dok uživate u božićnoj atmosferi.

Christmas is doing a number of trade fairs in the city center, next to the Art Pavilion, one on Zrinjevac, one on the Ban Jelacic Square, on the European market, and many small fairs all over the city.
Everything is decorated with Christmas trees, wreaths, lights and lamps, even has artificial snow forest … truly wonderful experience! At Christmas fairs set the fire or heaters, so that you, with mulled wine, and they are heated. Wooden tables are full of happiness and joy  inviting you to have a great time. The terraces of cafes are also full of people, with colorful blankets you can put on yourself while you enjoy the Christmas mood.

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Europski trg osobito me oduševio s ovim svjetlucavim srebrnim srcima koja Vam vise iznad glave, predivnim pogledom na katedralu i naravno, omamljujućim mirisima koji se šire trgom. I ovdje možete uživati u blagdanskim čarima i opskrbiti se brojnim delicijama.  U ponudi su sok od aronije, predivnih začini, i naravno, limun i mirisne naranče koje se nestašno valjaju poput zaigranih kugli zimskog sunca.

The European market in particular impressed me with this glittery silver hearts  glittering over you head, a beautiful view of the cathedral and of course, the scents that spread market. Here you can enjoy the magic of  holiday and supply yourself with numerous delicacies. There are aronia juice, wonderful spices, and of course, fragrant lemon and orange which are playfully rolling like the winter sun.

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Na svim trgovima nude se razne kobasice u pecivima ili sa zeljem. Tu se pikantne debrecinke, kranjske, polusuhe, kobasice od divljači i brojne druge. Meni se osobito svidjela kobasica pokraj Umjetničkog paviljona, debrecinka u ugrijanom pecivu s karameliziranim lukom tj slatko kiselim chtuneyjem od luka, kiselim kupusom i senfom.

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All squares offere many sausages in rolls or with cabbage. There are spicy Debrecener, Kranjska, semi, venison sausages and many others. I especially liked the sausage next to the left of the Art Pavilion, Debrecener the heated bun with caramelized onions – sweet and sour chutney of onions, sauerkraut and mustard.

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Svakako savjetujem šetnju šarenom cifrastom Tkalčom, nekada obrtničkim i trgovačkim centrom srednjovjekovnog grada koji i danas nudi odlične lokalne proizvode poput “Zagorkine” Gričke vještice piva iz pivnice Medvedgrad, Nocturna i lijepih malih kafića s lijeve i desne strane. Slastičarnica Ivica i Marica pruža odličnu bajkovitu atmosferu i izvrsne domaće kolače. Slikajte se i na Krvavom mostu, mjestu sukoba građana s Gradeca i Kaptola koja ih danas podsjećaju na tu mračnu prošlost.Ja sam isprobala Šeherezadu od višnje i čokolade, a odlične su bajkovita šuma sa sirom i ostale torte s maštovitim imenima!

To the Old Town center you can come through the Tkalča street – the old medieval craft and trade center of Zagreb. In the medieval times, here there was a creek in the city center until it was covered in the 19 century. A bridge called The Bloody Brigde was a place were there the citizens of Kaptol and Gradec (two parts of Zagreb) had numerous street fights so the name of the street that is passing today on the place where there was the Bloody Brigde stands as a reminder of that dark past. About this place wrote also a great croatian journalist an writer Marija Jurić Zagorka. She was also one of the first journalists women in Southeastern Europe. She wrote in the 19th and 20th century historical, love, intriguing and often also politically provocative novels. She is standing now and wathicng the Tkalča in it’s noisy everyday life. It is now one of the most colorful steets in Zagreb offering many great places for coffee and beer, as the legendery city Pub MEDVEDGRAD – offering local beer named by Zagorka’s most popular novel “Grička vještica” or “The Whitch of Grič”. The Kula Lotšćaka, tower of the Upper Town (Gradec) is also a theme of Zagorka’s novels. I recommend also the Nocturno as a place with good food on a low-budget. The Hansel und Gratel (Ivica i Marica) are giving you a fairytale experience and very good homemade cakes!

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Do Gornjeg grada možete i Uspinjačom od 1890. Mi smo se pak prošetali, i to i do Kule Lotršaća, ali i do Sabora i vlade. Uživajmo u božićnim svjetlima!

To the old town you can come also with a Funicular from the 1890s. We decided instead to take a walk to St Marc’s Square – the Upper City Center and the place where the Croatian Parliament, Government and Constitutional Court are heading. !

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Jeste li posjetili Zagreb u adventsko vrijeme? Koje su Vaše najdraže božićne destinacije?

Have you visited Zagreb in this time of year? Which one is your favorite Christmas destination?

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