Hrana kao sevdah ili bosanski comfort food

Nedavno sam pročitala kako predivna Amira Medunjanin nastupa u našoj blizini, pa sam naravno dragom natuknula da želim ići. Zapravo, uopće nisam slutila, preslušavajući iznova pjesme nekoliko dana prije koncerta, koliko će me osupnuti taj nastup, koliko daleko baciti u prošlost, koliko dirnuti i rasplakati. Proplakala sam valjda pola koncerta, ali uopće mi nije neugodno. I ona je! Amira je uistinu čarobna, glas kao da joj je sabrao emocije stotina i stotina godina, u njemu se osjeća bol tisuća dana, izlazaka oštrog sunca, vjetrom išibanih krikova i mjesecom obasjanih sevdaha…! Njen glas vas provede kroz sva ta stoljeća, kroz planine, šume, sjene, suze i vjetar u jednome dahu tako da zaboravite i na tu plastičnu stolicu na kojoj neudobno sjedite i na to koji je dan, koji je grad…ali ne i na to koga držite za ruku i usred kakvoga ste se divnog izraza našli…koji vas obavija i koji je daleko veći od vas…


I recently read that the wonderful Amira performances in our neighborhood, so of course I suggested to my darling I would like to see her. Actually, I didn’t even suspected, when listening the songs a few days before the concert, how astonished I’m going to be by her performance, how far she can throw you to the past, how touched I’m going to be.  I guess I cried for the half of the concert, but I don’t feel embarrassed at all. She did, too! Amira is truly magical, her voice is like as she had collected the emotions of hundreds and hundreds of years, I can see the pain of thousands days, the harsh sun, how the wind screams and moon rises over thousands of sevdah nights(genre of traditional bosnian music whit a special meaning “longing”)…! Her voice get you through all these centuries, through the mountains, trees, shadows, tears and wind in one breath so that you forget to the plastic chair in which it is uncomfortable sitting on it, which is the day, what the city … but not who is holding your hand in this lyrically  expression … that surroundes you and that is far greater than you …

pitacijela

Ipak, slušajući Amirine izvedbe sevdaha i prije nastupa, našla sam se kako pomahnitalo razvlačim jufke, prebirem prstima po prozirnom tijestu gotovo plešući u razasutom brašnu koje svjetluca po morskom zraku. S puno ljubavi vukla sam te niti, a u međuvremenu kuhala slatku agdu od vodice narančina cvijeta, kardamoma i limuna. Odjednom sam se zaželila slatkih, preslatkih tulumba koje se u ustima tope, zadirkuju svježinom limuna i omamljuju slatkoćom i mirisom narančine vodice.


However, listening to Amira’s performance sevdaha and before the concert, I found myself making loose dough,gently getting my way whit my hands through thin dough, almost dancing in flour flashing in the sea air. With much love I made this dough and cooked sweet agdu (syrup) of  orange blossom water, cardamom and lemon. I suddenly wished to have a sweet, lovely tulumba (very sweet cake whit aromatic syrup) that melt in your mouth, with teasingly fresh lemon and stunning sweetness and fragrance of orange water.

tulumbance1

Nešto što bi se moglo nazvati bosanski comfort food. Hrana koja podsjeća na toplinu doma i gorde planine. I na to kako je u Bosni sve uvijek pretjerano.

https://eatastelove.wordpress.com/2016/04/22/sevdah-o-bosni/

Pa sam i ja napravila previše pite i preslatke tulumbe.

Ovo nisu u potpunosti tradicionalni recepti, s obzirom da sam pitu radila s maslinovim uljem, a naknadno i premazivala češnjakom, kao i da sam na kraju koristila dimljenu papriku, mentu i vlasac u jogurtu. Čak i korijandar. Zbog toga pita zapravo na neki način nalikuje više na tursku ili bliskoistočnu kuhinju, s toplijom klimom, kojoj maslinovo ulje i bogatstvo začina nisu nimalo strani. Tamni vilajet uvijek je bio presiromašan da bi se proširilo korištenje skupih začina. To je i taj neki put koji je vučeno tijesto prešlo, a ovakve pite (Ja ću ih zvati pite jer se tradicionalno sva slana bezmesna vučena tijesta oblikovana u smotujke tako nazivaju, dok je burek turski naziv za iste. U Bosni burek je samo jedan – s mesom. ) sa sličnim načinom razvlačenja tijesta i razlikama u punjenjima, mogu se pronaći na cijelom balkanskom polutoku, od Turske, Bugarske, preko Bosne, sve do Makedonije i Grčke, a zatim i preko Sredozemlja u sjevernoafričkim zemljama poput Maroka i Tunisa…zapravo cijelo ono područje koje je jednom dijelu prošlosti zahvaćeno i arapskim kulturnim utjecajima. Začini u tulumbama također se rijetko mogu vidjeti u Bosni, a ovako kako sam ih ja koristila, vjerojatno bi se najbolje smjestile u marokansku kuhinju.


Something that might be called Bosnian comfort food. Food that reminded of the warmth of home and the proud of our mountains. And the fact that in Bosnia over sweetness, over bitterness and overwhelming is a must.

So I made too many pies (savory) and adorable tulumbe (sweet).

This are not entirely bosnian traditional recipes, since I made the pie with olive oil, and subsequently coated with garlic, and I finally used the smoked paprika, mint and chives in yogurt. Cilantro can be used, too. Therefore this one somehow looks more like the Turkish or Middle Eastern cuisine, with warmer climates, where olive oil and spices  are more used.  Bosnia has a different climate and is also really poor, so the traditional recipe would not include spices and olive oil like this one does. The path of making all these pies is similar (I’ll call them pies (pita) because traditionally all salty meatless thin rolled dough, while burek Turkish is the name for the same. In Bosnia burek is only one – with meat.) with similar patterns of making and diversity of fillings,this pie can be found in the entire Balkan peninsula, from Turkey, Bulgaria, via Bosnia, to Macedonia and Greece, and then across the Mediterranean in North African countries such as Morocco and Tunisia … actually the whole area that was in one part of the history affected the Arab cultural influences. Spices in tulumba also rarely seen in Bosnia, but now that I have I used, it would probably be best settled in Moroccan cuisine.

pitatanjur

PITA ZELJANICA (za jednu)

600 gr brašna

0,5 dcl maslinovog (suncokretovog) ulja

žlica soli

1 dcl tople vode

500 gr opranog narezanog špinata ili blitve

3 režnja češnjaka

malo maslinovog ulja, sol, čili po želji

 

BOSNIAN PIE

600 g flour
0.5 ml olive (sunflower) oil
tablespoon salt
1 oz of hot water
500 g of washed chopped spinach or chard
3 cloves garlic
a little olive oil, salt, chili pepper to taste

pitabocno

Prosijte brašno, dodajte žlicu soli, ulja i dodavajte polako tople vode dok mijesite tijesto. Ukoliko vam ispadne premekano, dodajte još brašna, zamijesite tako da bude srednje tvrdo. Zatim namažite ruke uljem i razdvojite nekoliko loptica tijesta. Za jednu pitu je dovoljno 2 lista. Manje smjese stavite na stolnjak koji ste prethodno posuli brašnom. Dodajte još malo brašna i od svake napravite čvrste loptice, tako da povlačite zadnji rubove tijesta prema unutra dok se dovoljno ne ukuha i postane malo tvrđa i čvrsta loptica. Otprilike jednu pjesmu 🙂  Nju zatim oklagijom lagano izvaljajte, kao što je na slici, a zatim premažite s malo ulja. Tijesto nek stoji barem 20-ak minuta. Za to vrijeme pripremite nadjev.

Blitvu samo dobro operite i očistite, dodajte joj sol, češnjak i maslinovo ulje. Ako želite, možete dodati i svježi sir i jedno jaje. Ja sam ciljala na ovaj zemljani, čisti okus blitve, tako da sam to ovaj puta izostavila. Umjesto blitve, možete drugu pitu puniti sezonskim tikvicama, a u Bosni je poznata i pita maslenica, koja se jede prazna. Pita se može raditi i od integralnog tijesta, a može se i nepečena zamrznuti.


Sift the flour, add a tablespoon of salt, oil and add the hot water slowly while Knead the dough. If you drop too soft, add more flour, Mixing to be medium-hard. Then grease the hands of oil and separate balls of dough. For one pie is enough 2 balls. Put mixture on a tablecloth that you previously floured. Add a little more flour, and each make solid balls, by pulling on the rear edges of the dough inward until enough not kneaded and becomes a little harder and a solid ball. You knead approximately a song long 🙂 Then gently roll it flat, as in the picture, then brush with a little oil. Let it stand for at least 20 minutes. During this time, prepare the filling.

Just wash and clean the chard, add the salt, garlic and olive oil. If you want, you can add the fresh cheese (cottage…) and one egg. I am aiming at this earthy, clean taste of chard, so I left it out this time. Instead of spinach, you can fill another pie seasonal zucchini, and in Bosnia is known and called maslenica, which is eaten empty. Pita can be done from an integral dough, too, and can be frozen uncooked.

pitanepecena

Razvucite tijesto uz pomoć oklagije ili rukama, ovisi kako vam je lakše, ja koristim najprije oklagiju, pa završim rukama. Razvlačenje radite polako i strpljivo, ali ako ste sve napravili kako treba, trebalo bi se bez problema razvlačiti preko cijelog stola. Ne brinite ako nastane i koja rupa, kada zarolate tanko tijesto, to se neće primijetiti. Zatim lagano pošpricajte s malo ulja, i dodajte smjesu tako da je rasporedite po cijelom listu. Zarolajte uz pomoć stolnjaka, tako da ga podignete s jedne strane do pola, a zatim to sve ponovite s druge. Napunjene listove pite režite na željenu dužinu i prebacite u nauljen, a dobro bi bilo, i već zagrijan pleh kako bi s donje strane dobiti još bolju koricu. Možete raditi i kružni oblik od tijesta.  Polako zamotajte u krug i stavite na nauljen pleh. Zatim ponovite sve s drugim listom i zamotajte ponovno ili oko ovog već napravljenog lista.

Pecite na 220 C oko pola sata. 10-ak minuta prije kraja izvucite pitu i pospite je s malo vode. Ponovno je pospite vodom nakon što je gotova, te prekrijte čistom krpom. Za dodatnu aromu premažite ju maslinovim uljem s češnjakom i krupnom soli. Poslužite uz kajmak ili jogurt sa začinima. Ja sam koristila mješavinu mente, korijandra i vlasca, a jogurtu dodala i malo limuna. Sve sam poula dimljenom paprikom.


Stretch the dough with the help of rolling pin or your hands, depending on how you prefer, I use a rolling pin first, then finish hands. Work slowly and patiently, but if you do everything right, it should be no problem linger over the entire table. Do not worry if there is a hol in it, when roll the thin dough, it will not be noticed. Then lightly spray with a little oil, and add the filling so that it is spread over the whole dough. Roll with the help of a tablecloth, by lifting it from one side to the half of the table and then it all again on the other. Cut the filled sheets of pie to the desired length and switch to oiled and even better , already heated pan to the bottom of the crust to get it even better. You can make a circular shape of dough if you like. Slowly wrap the filled sheet in a circle and place on oiled baking sheet. Then repeat with the other dough and wrap it again or have already made about this list.

Bake at 220 C for about half an hour. 10 minutes before the end pull the pie and sprinkle it with a little water. Again the sprinkle water after finished, and cover it. For more aroma , paont it with olive oil with garlic. Serve with sour cream or yogurt with chosen hebrs and enjoy the traditional taste of Bosnia. I used a mixture of mint, coriander and chives, and yogurt and add a little lemon. All I tossed smoked paprika over.

TULUMBE

4 dcl vode

1 dcl ulja

220 gr brašna

5 jaja

sol, prstohvat kardamoma, prašak za pecivo

Sirup:

500 gr šećera

0,6 l vode

0,5 dcl vodice narančinog cvijeta

kardamom tri prstohvata

1 limun cijeli, narezan na kriške


SWEET SYRUP CAKE – TULUMBA

4 oz of water

1 dl oil

220 g flour

5 eggs

salt, a pinch of cardamom, baking powder

Syrup:

500 g sugar

0.6 liters of water

0.5 ounces orange flower waters

three pinches of cardamom

1 lemon whole, cut into slices

tulumbance2

U jednu posudu stavite vodu i ulje. Kada provrije, dodajte sol, brašno, kardamom i pp.

Gusto tijesto ostavite da se ohladi. Kada postane hladno, umiješajte u njega jedno po jedno jaje. Zapravo želite dobiti tijesto kao  za eclair ili princess.

Za sirup, sve sastojke stavite na vatru i kuhajte dok se sav šećer ne rastopi i smjesa postane sirupasta. Ohladiti.

Tijesto staviti u špricu i oblikovati duguljaste oblike, možete na nastavku kojim radite ružice i ukrase, ali većem. Ja nisam imala veliki, pa sam tijesto samo istisnula u obliku piškota i napravila ukrase vilicom. Ipak, bolje je ako imate nastavke, jer se tako tijesto lakše natopi sirupom. Pecite na 200 C u plehu, ako želite možete ih umjesto toga pržiti u dubokom ulju 20ak minuta, dok ne porumene. Kada se ohlade, umočiti u sirup, a zatim preliti sirupom i okretati da jednakomjesrno upije sa svih strana. Meni su najfinije kada su jako ohlađene. Arome koje sam dodala su kao jedno malo zaigranu sunce u svoj toj ozbiljnoj slatkoći.


In a saucepan, bring the water and oil. When it boil, add salt, flour, cardamom and baking soda.

Set the dough aside to cool. When it gets cold, stir into it one by one egg. In fact, you want to get the dough as for eclair or princess.

For the syrup, put all the ingredients on fire and cook until all the sugar dissolves and the mixture becomes syrupy. Cool down.

Shape the dough as for eclairs, using the rose kind of extention for doing roses and ornaments, but larger. I did not have a big one , so I just squeezed the dough in the form of biscuits and made ornaments with a fork. However, it is better if you have extensions, as this dough easier and filled with syrup. Bake at 200 C in the pan, about 20 minutes, until golden brown, or if you want instead to fry in deep oil. When cool, dip in syrup, then pour the syrup and turn to evenly absorbed from all sides.  I like them best when they are really chilled. Aromas of lemon and cardamom are adding a playful little sun in all that serious sweetness.

tulumbance3

 

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2 Comments Add yours

  1. eatastelove says:

    thank you very much! 🙂

    Like

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